Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Oval Dutch Oven, 9.5 qt., Cerise

Why it's worth it

The oval shape and the extra volume are the whole point. A chicken, a pork shoulder or a bone-in leg of lamb lies down flat instead of getting wedged upright, and 9.5 quarts covers holiday-scale stock and stew without dragging out a second pot.

Round pots fight long food. A whole chicken in a 5.5-quart round sits up on its shoulders, and the lid presses down on it. The oval trades height for length, so roasts, ribs and a big loaf lie flat and cook evenly end to end. If you host, or if Sunday means a roast, that shape difference shows up every single time you use it.

The capacity is a genuinely different job. At 9.5 quarts this holds enough stock, gumbo or braise to feed a full table with leftovers, and the owners who stay happiest with it are the ones cooking for big families or entertaining often. If you cook for two most nights, it's too much pot. It takes longer to come up to heat, and it swallows most of a cabinet shelf.

From our review of 8 le creuset cookware pieces

What we like

• +Round pots fight long food
• +The capacity is a genuinely different job
• +Everything else matches the top pick
• +It earns its keep at the table, too

What to know

• –It's over 16 pounds empty, per the listing
• –Storage is the other tax