Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Signature Braiser, 3.5 qt., Cerise

Why it's worth it

A braiser is a wide, shallow Dutch oven, and that shape is why it's the piece people buy second. More of your chicken thighs touch hot metal at once, so you get a real crust instead of a gray steam bath, and the lid still handles the slow part.

The wide base is the whole argument. Food & Wine recommends the 3.5-quart braiser specifically because its shallow, broad bottom sits closer to the burner and gives you far more contact area than a deep pot's floor. You can fit six thighs in one layer instead of browning in two batches. Browning happens instead of steaming, and that browning is most of the flavor in any braise.

Then it does the second half of the job without a pan swap. Sear, pour in stock or wine, put the lid on, and slide the whole thing into the oven, which is rated safe up to 500°F. It comes out looking good enough to set on the table, and that's not nothing when you've cooked for guests and don't feel like plating six portions.

From our review of 8 le creuset cookware pieces

What we like

• +The wide base is the whole argument
• +Then it does the second half of the job without a pan swap
• +It won't replace a Dutch oven, though

What to know

• –For its size it's heavy
• –The light interior browns and stains with hard searing