The Best RV Leveling Blocks

The interlock is the whole point. Loose blocks squirt out sideways when a tire climbs them, which is how people end up chasing a yellow square across a gravel pad. These grip each other, so a three-high stack stays a stack. Camco says not to build higher than about four and a half inches, and that's a limit worth respecting on a windy night.

Ten blocks is enough for a typical campground pad. Guides for new owners generally suggest two blocks per side for a normal site, and double that if you camp off-grid on dirt. With ten, you can put a two-high stack under both tires on one side and still keep a couple in reserve for the tongue jack. Two sets is the answer for a long fifth wheel.

The T-handle sounds like a gimmick until you've carried blocks in the rain. Lift the handle, twist it into the bottom block, and the whole stack travels as one brick instead of a slippery armload. Then it collapses flat for storage. There's no bag, which is the small annoyance here, but the locked stack sits fine in a bumper compartment or a milk crate.

They're not just tire blocks. Camco lists them as compatible with hydraulic, tongue, stabilizer and fifth-wheel jacks, and with single wheels, duals and tandem axles. That flexibility is why we'd hand a set to a first-time owner over anything shaped for one job. A curved ramp can't hold up a stabilizer foot sinking into wet grass. A flat yellow square can.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

Stacking takes a few minutes, and you'll do it twice — once to guess the height, once to fix your guess. Comparisons of leveling methods put interlocking blocks at roughly two to three minutes against under a minute for a drive-on ramp. If you move sites every night, that adds up.

Each block is only about an inch and a half thick, and the stack limit is about four and a half inches. That's plenty for most paved and gravel pads. It's not enough for a badly tilted dispersed site, where you'd want a second set or a taller ramp.

An inch per block is the quiet advantage here. Thicker blocks make you choose between too low and too high, and you settle for whichever is less annoying. With inch increments you can actually land close to level, which matters if your fridge is the absorption kind that sulks on a slope. Two smooth top caps sit on the stack so the tire meets a flat surface.

The bag is worth more than it sounds. Twelve loose blocks in a storage bay become twelve loose blocks rattling down the highway. RVMATE includes a carrying bag, so the set lives in one place and comes out in one trip. Camco's own set skips the bag and gives you a handle instead. Which you prefer depends on whether you're a stack person or a duffel person.

The blocks interlock and work under the same things Camco's do: single wheels, duals, hydraulic jacks, tongue jacks, stabilizer jacks and fifth-wheel jacks. So this isn't a stripped-down design. It's the same idea, with more pieces and a lower price, from a smaller brand. Owners buy a lot of these, and the feedback skews positive on fit and stacking.

Twelve pieces also means you can leave a few under the stabilizer jacks and still have a stack for a tire. That's the situation that catches new owners out. You level the trailer, drop the jacks, and one of them hangs in the air over a rut. Having spares in the bag beats hunting for a flat rock in the dark.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

RVMATE doesn't publish a per-block weight rating, and the blocks are a bit thinner than Camco's. For a light travel trailer that's academic. For a heavy fifth wheel parked on hot asphalt, we'd rather have a set with a stated capacity and a longer track record.

The set includes no wheel chocks. Blocks are not chocks, and a stack under a tire does nothing to stop the trailer rolling, so budget for a real pair before your first trip.

Picture the end of a long tow day. It's dark, the site slopes, and you'd like to be inside. This is where the drive-on design earns its keep. You lay the rubber mat, set the leveler in front of the low tire, pull forward until the bubble reads right, and stop. No guessing a stack height, no getting out to add another block.

Andersen builds these in the USA and backs them with a money-back satisfaction guarantee, which is the only warranty language in this whole lineup. The rubber mat matters more than it looks like it should. On concrete or hard-packed gravel, a bare curved leveler wants to slide forward as the tire climbs it. The mat is what keeps it planted.

You're buying one leveler, though, and that's the catch new buyers miss. A single-axle trailer needs one. A tandem-axle trailer needs two of these side by side under the pair of tires on the low side, so plan on buying twice. That's a real cost difference against a ten-pack of blocks, and it's the main reason this isn't our top pick.

The capacity headroom is what makes this the upgrade. Thirty thousand pounds on a single unit, on tires up to 32 inches, covers big fifth wheels and Class A motorhomes that would flatten a thin plastic block. If your rig is heavy, buy capacity well above what each tire actually carries. Cracking a leveler under load is not the kind of surprise you want at a campsite.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

It costs considerably more than a bag of plastic blocks, and you'll likely need two of them for a tandem axle. It also does one job. A curved leveler won't sit under a stabilizer jack or shim a wobbly picnic table, so most owners who buy these still keep a few plastic blocks in the bay.

Four inches is the ceiling. On a badly tilted dispersed site you'll run out of ramp, and there's no stacking your way past it.

Andersen builds every Camper Leveler in the USA and backs it with a money-back satisfaction guarantee.

If the Andersen approach appeals but buying two units doesn't, this is the practical answer. You get a matched pair, plus the chocks and the non-slip mats that you'd otherwise buy separately. For a tandem-axle travel trailer, that's the complete side-to-side setup in one purchase, bag included.

The chocks are the part we like. They mesh into the underside of the leveler with a gear pattern, so the wedge can't creep backward once the tire settles. Loose plastic chocks on a curved ramp are a known weak point of cheap kits. Pair that with the rubber mats under everything and the whole assembly stays where you put it on concrete.

Speed is the reason to go this route at all. Published comparisons of leveling methods put interlocking blocks at roughly two to three minutes and drive-on ramps at under one. That gap is nothing if you park for a week. It's the difference between a pleasant arrival and a chore if you're moving every day, or if you're doing it alone in the rain.

High-density polyethylene and a 35,000-pound rating give you margin, which matters more than the headline number suggests. Your rig's gross weight spreads across several tires, but ruts, curbs and a bad approach angle concentrate load on one. Buying well above what you think each tire carries is the cheap kind of insurance. This kit has the most headroom here.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

Two curved levelers cover one side of a tandem axle and nothing else. There's no stacking, no propping up a stabilizer jack, no shimming a jack pad. If this is your only leveling gear, you'll want a handful of flat blocks in the bay anyway.

Owner feedback on drive-on levelers generally is mixed on very soft ground. On sand or wet grass the ramp digs in rather than lifting, and the mats only help so much. Bring a wide board if you camp off pavement often.